Vintage Damascene jewelry

https://www.etsy.com/shop/vintagejewelryetal

Is it authentic Damascene? Or is it something else?

Here’s how to tell the difference.

Do you ever wonder why similar pieces of jewelry can have such a huge variation in price? Such is the case with Damascene jewelry.  It turns out that when you know what to look for, it’s pretty easy to tell the difference between authentic Damascene jewelry and its less expensive faux Damascene cousin.

With genuine Damascene jewelry:

• The background metal is oxidized to a very dark color
• The design is hand chiseled or etched into the black metal background.
• Gold and/or silver foil is pressed into the chiseled design

In other words, the gold or silver design are inlaid into the black background.

The Damascene process originated around 2,000 years ago in Damascus in what is now Syria. Over the years the craft migrated to Spain and Japan. Both faux and authentic versions are today crafted in Toledo, Spain, so don’t be fooled into thinking if it is marked “Toledo” or “Spain” it  is the real thing.  Just look for that etched, inlaid gold and silver design. (When I originally wrote this article I had several authentic Damascene pieces. They are popular and sold out quickly)

Here are a couple of nice examples that I have:

Vintage Damascene bird brooch in gold square setting

 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/737276938/antique-damascene-dragon-pin-c-clasp

 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/739324220/vintage-damascene-floral-brooch

 

With faux Damascene or “Toledoware” or “Damascene style”  jewelry:

• The “gold” and “silver” are painted on top of the black background.
• There is often some white “beading” included in the design.

Vintage faux damascene faux pearl flower brooch (sold)

Other processes that have a similar look

Niello

Although it may look similar to damascene, niello is a different process. Metal is engraved to create a raised design, then a mixture of silver, lead and sulphur, which creates a black enamel-like substance, is poured into the engraved areas. So with damascene, the black is oxidized metal which provides the background. With niello, the black is a compound added to the engraved areas of the metal. Colored enamel is often used in place of a black lead and sulphur compound to create more colorful pieces.

Niello has been produced in many countries, but you’ll most likely see vintage nielloware from Thailand. From the 1930s through the 1970s, handmade niello jewelry was made popular in the U.S. by American soldiers who brought it back as gifts for their wives and girlfriends. At the time, Thailand was known as Siam, so you will see many of these vintage pieces stamped “SIAM STERLING.”

Niello Sterling fan clip earrings (sold)

 

Niello Sterling dragon brooch (sold)

 

Chokin

Chokin is the ancient Japanese art of engraving copper and gilding it with precious gold and silver. These engravings were originally created to decorate the shrine, temple and the armament of the samurai warriors, but the technique has been employed in many different areas, including jewelry and accessories.

Chokin Japanese metal art powder compact (sold)

Please stay tuned for more articles about vintage jewelry!